Discuss motion in the sea waves

Motion in Sea Waves

When wind blows across a smooth water surface, it interacts with the water molecules, leading to the formation of waves.

Formation of Sea Waves

The friction between the air and water stretches the water surface, creating capillary waves, or small ripples. Surface tension then acts on these ripples to restore the smooth surface, leading to the formation of larger waves.

1. Factors Influencing Wave Formation:
   1. Gravity: The gravitational pull affects wave size and stability.
   1. Wind Intensity: Stronger winds generate larger waves.
   1. Fetch
   1. Water Depth and Topography
2. Swell Phenomenon: At a distance from the fetch, waves exhibit a regular shape known as swell, where energy travels in a more organized manner.

  Sea wave formation by storm

Characteristics of Waves

1. Crest: The highest point of the wave.
2. Trough: The lowest point of the wave.
3. Wave Height (H): The vertical distance between the crest and the trough.
4. Amplitude (α): Defined as half the wave height (H/2).
5. Wavelength (λ): The horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs.
6. Wave Propagation Velocity (v): The speed at which the wave moves through the water.
7. Wave Period (T): The time it takes for two successive crests (or troughs) to pass a fixed point.
8. Frequency (f): The number of wave crests (or troughs) that pass a fixed point in one second, calculated as: